Is the Riesling revival finally here? This is a review of a tasting of a whole series of Rieslings spanning almost 20 years from 5 different countries at Wine Cellar 7 March 2012.

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We started with what I feel is the best riesling in South Africa, the Howard Booysen 2010. A vineyard close to 1000m in altitude on the frost/snowline just outside Oudtshoorn. It has a wonderful crisp acidity, defined structure, limey notes and 20 grams of residual sugar; showing a wonderful balance and Mosel-like characters. The Felton Road 2010 form Central Otago, with 60 grams of sugar and a lower alcohol, showed a more simple character with less intensity. The Willi Schaefers were pure class, with amazing delicacy and balance. The Spatlese was richer and more concentrated than the Kabinett, but both will age with grace for 10 years or more. Willi Schaefer’s has cult status around the world is deserved; his tiny 2000 case production of two vineyards, Graacher Domprobst and Himmelreich, produces interesting and though provoking wines.

The second flight opened with classic wines from Laible; a producer and region that is seldom seen outside of Germany. They have Mosel precision but with more alcohol (13%) in a dry style. The reserve is a selection of the best vineyards. At 4 years of age they are still showing their youth and all felt that they required a few years for extra complexity and softening of acidity.

The aged local Rieslings all had more terpene characters, a softer acidity and a somewhat greenish edge. The highlight was the 2002 Paul Cluver which was intact with ample verve and a chiselled acidity showing its cooler clime. Jordan’s 2004 was expressive and flavoursome whilst the Thelema was still drinking well but with faded fruit.

And then the final flight of Rieslings from slightly cooler climes. The Yalumba is an easy style with lots of freshness, made in large volumes by Australia’s biggest family owned winery. The Pewsey Vale was quite a large step up in quality, with more depth and precision from the high altitude of Eden Vally (up to 500m). It shows the typical lime cordial notes and minerality of the region. Finally the four Trimbachs; a crescendo of richness and class. The 2009 riesling shows the generosity of the vintage; quite ripe and accessible in its youth with an amazing minerality that only classic Alsace can achieve. These all give the sensation similar to that of sucking a pebble. It is terrific value! The Reserve is a real jump in depth and power, from vineyards over 40 years in age. The final two wines of the evening were a real test of greatness. The Frederich Emile, made from two Grand Cru vineyards up to 60 years in age, was more complex and ready. The Clos St Hune from the 1.67ha Rosacker vineyard has more limestone soil and therefore will require more time in bottle to show its best. Both wines had amazing depth and length; one had to pause for a few minutes after each sip to fully engage in their greatness. Sublime.

Wines Tasted

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Clos St Hun Riesling Wine Cellar tastings