Last week Wine Cellar showcased 2 pioneering winemaking generations at the 6th edition of Young Guns, this year ‘Reloaded’. South African fine wine has come full circle in many ways, with the new generation moving back towards hands-off winemaking, large foudres and forgotten grape varieties. While the latest Cabernets from Le Riche and Neil Ellis build on the success of the winemakers’ legendary fathers, Boschkloof and Overgaauw have become more refined and elegant with the new generation. Crystallum, too, offers a more delicate expression than the more robust Bouchard Finlayson Pinot Noirs.
The wine that most aptly shows this revolutionary movement, however, is the new-release Kaapzicht Skuinsberg Cinsaut 2015. Having sold all their grapes to SFW until 1984, their first bottled red was a 1990 Cinsaut. With the increasing popularity of international varieties and Pinotage in the 1990s, most Cinsaut was uprooted or blended away. But after years of trying to convince his father, and perhaps a push from the Swartland Young Gunners, Danie Junior has made a cracking 2015. Much loved at the tastings, it also offers tremendous value.
Rich and bright, the Kaapzicht shows impressive old-vine Stellenbosch Cinsaut character with its trademark sweet-berry fruit, olive notes and fynbos edge. The tannins are well-rounded but serious enough for ageing. Given how some of the old-school Cinsauts have aged, there’s no reason for this not to keep for 5 to 10 years, if not more.