Wine Cellar Plus

Michel Chapoutier on the next great region for red wine

Wine Cellar — Wed, 22 May 2013 13:48:27 +0000

Wine Spectator recently asked renowned producer Michel Chapoutier for his thoughts on the Roussillon region – an undervalued appellation in Southern France that is producing rich, concentrated reds at affordable prices.

According to Chapoutier, Roussillon may well be the next great region for red wines as it has ‘some of the best soil in France and probably the world’.

Read the full article on Winespectator.com.

As we mentioned in our most recent newsletter, both Robert Parker and Wine Spectator hold Chapoutier’s Bila Haut wines in high regard. At just R90 per bottle, and with 90 Parker points in tow, Les Vignes de Bila Haut (Côtes du Roussillon Villages) is undoubtedly one of the best value reds on our list. Email Pia@winecellar.co.za to order.

Huge Parker ratings: Chapoutier’s Bila Haut

Wine Cellar — Tue, 21 May 2013 13:24:19 +0000

Michel Chapoutier, sometimes a controversial figure, reckons that the Languedoc-Roussillon could become one of the finest wine regions in France as climate change affects the more marginal regions, such as the Northern Rhône. His Languedoc-Roussillon property, Domaine Bila Haut, produces some of the best value wines on our portfolio and VIT is on par with his top Hermitages in terms of quality. The sunny climate gives a generosity to the wines whilst the schist soils offer good freshness. Like Chapoutier’s other wines, they are all organically produced.

Les Vignes de Bila Haut is Wine Cellar’s most popular wine, a deliciously fruity yet fine blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. It has also been on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list for the last two years and the 2011 is another great vintage.

Occultum Lapidem is a similar blend from older vines, made in a more serious style. It shows far more tannin and sweet fruit, almost a new-world-like representation in the old world. The impressively rated (Robert Parker 94-96!) 2011 is stonkingly rich and requires a few years’ cellaring. It’s worth reading The Wine Advocate’s notes on the 2009 below…

Finally, the VIT is offered En-primeur along with the other Chapoutier single vineyards. It heralds from 70-year-old Grenache and Syrah vines and is matured in new oak for 18 months. Like the others, it is remarkable value for money.

Tasting notes

Chapoutier Bila Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2009
From Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah planted in a mixture of gneiss, schist, and chalk, and vinified half each in tank and barrel (demi-muids as well as barriques), the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem – due to have been bottled in May – is scented with rosemary, sage, blackberry, mulberry, which are joined on a rich, expansive palate by marrow-rich meatiness and a striking, saline, iodine-tinged savor that I can only liken to shrimp shell reduction. (It there’s a wine for “surf ‘n turf,” it’s this.) The sense of clarity, brightness, and energy here is utterly infectious and the combination of pure dark fruits, invigoratingly pungent smokiness, and saliva-inducing salinity is bound to induce hunger – among other things for the next sip. Look for at least ten or a dozen years of stimulating acquaintance. – The Wine Advocate

Chapoutier Bila Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2011
The bramble and spice elements are balanced and fresh in this muscular, juicy red from the south of France. Displays hints of black olive to the dried blackberry and plum compote flavors, featuring a firm kick of tannins on the mocha-infused finish. Drink now through 2019. 80,002 cases made. – Wine Spectator

Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila Haut 2011
Firm and moderately ripe, featuring muscular flavors of dark plum, kirsch and graphite, accented by mocha and slate notes. Offers a dense and mineral-infused finish redolent of dark chocolate. Drink now through 2017. 40,000 cases made. – Wine Spectator

Chapoutier Bila Haut ‘VIT’ 2009
Tasted assembled from tank after recent racking, the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France v.i.t (the initials standing for “visitare interiore terrae”) smells of fennel, rosemary, juniper, and abundant black fruits. Palate-saturating and caressing, it boasts abundant though fine tannins and a seamless ripeness free of any superficial sweetness. While this lacks the vibrancy or complexity of the corresponding 2008 or its evocative length, let’s see what happens once it has settled down from racking and then had time to rest in bottle. It should be a candidate for at least a decade’s aging. – The Wine Advocate

Please email Pia@winecellar.co.za or phone 021 448 4105 to order.
See here for delivery charges.

Pia’s pick of the week – 2 [video]

Wine Cellar — Fri, 17 May 2013 13:52:51 +0000

In this week’s episode, Pia recommends Bryan McRobert’s Tobias 2012. At just R90 per bottle, this fresh, opulent wine from the Swartland is the perfect anytime red. To order, email Pia@winecellar.co.za.

SA producers bring in largest crop on record

Wine Cellar — Wed, 15 May 2013 14:21:11 +0000

According to VinPro, the 2013 grape crop is the largest on record and is expected to exceed that of 2012 by 5%. Harvests across the Cape winelands are bigger than usual (with the exception of Robertson) and a number of wine districts are likely to bring in their largest crop to date.

In terms of quality, some producers are hailing 2013 as an exceptional vintage. More detailed information on the success of individual regions is provided on www.politicsweb.co.za.

Bordeaux 2012: Pichons, Barton, Smiths and more

Wine Cellar — Tue, 14 May 2013 15:02:10 +0000

After a week of holidays in France and the UK, the Bordeaux en-primeur campaign is back in full swing. Prices are consistently being set only slightly lower than 2011, except for the Pichons, which are down 20%. Pichon Comtesse Lalande is as dependable as ever, but Pichon Longueville Baron, which is usually denser and richer, is said to have more Latour-like finesse in 2012.

Two of the most classically styled wines in Bordeaux are Léoville Barton and Calon Ségur. Both châteaux continue to make austere wines that require a decade or more of maturation before reaching their peak. Calon Ségur 2012 is described as ‘the Lafite of Saint-Estephe’ by Stephen Spurrier.

More modern offerings this week are the Smith Haut Lafitte pair as well as Clos Fourtet. The latter is owned by the Cuvelier family of Léoville Poyferré and has fast become one of the most sought-after St-Émilions. Smith Haut Lafitte continues its rise in Pessac-Léognan, with a red and a white that are among the region’s most concentrated and impressive.

See a list of all the 2012 offers here.

To order, email roland@winecellar.co.za or phone 021 448 4105.

Tasting Notes

Léoville Barton 2012
This well-made, complete St.-Julien possesses a dense purple color as well as surprisingly soft tannins for this wine which tends to be jacked up with a lot of structure, masculinity and muscle in most vintages. The 2012 offers attractive cedary, black currant fruit and vanilla notes, and a medium-bodied, denser mid-palate than many of its peers. The tannins are noticeable in the finish, so give this wine 4-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following two decades as it will be one of the longer lived wines of the vintage. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

The Grand Vin is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc picked between 3 and 15 October at 32hl/ha. It is more introspective than the Langoa at this early stage, but perhaps more complex with subtle tertiary and pencil lead scents infusing the black fruit profile. The palate is superbly balanced with fine tannins, delineated black and red fruit infused with graphite borrowed north from Pauillac. It exudes focus and precision and should be one of the finest Saint Julien 2012s. – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

Pichon Longueville Baron 2012
A strong effort from this Pauillac chateau, most of the old vine Cabernet Sauvignon from their parcels near Latour made it into the 2012 Pichon Longueville Baron’s final blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. A dense purple color is accompanied by an attractive bouquet of incense, cassis, cedar and toasty oak. It is medium to full-bodied as well as bigger, richer and brawnier than most Medoc 2012s. Noticeable tannin in the finish suggests 3-4 years of cellaring is warranted. Drink it over the following two decades. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Tasted en primeur at the château. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot picked between 1st and 17th October, the old vines picked form 8th October. It has a strict, quite conservative bouquet that is very focused: sous-bois, graphite and just a touch of mint. The palate is medium-bodied with a grainy entry. There is a good edginess here lent by the citric acidity with a very composed, harmonious finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. Very fine – but much more classic in style than recent vintages – in fact, more like Latour! – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

Pichon Comtesse Lalande 2012
Coming in at a lofty 13.2% natural alcohol, it offers up scents of black currants, white chocolate, berries, cedar and forest floor. Sweet tannin, a round opulence and medium body result in a classic, supple-textured Pauillac that should drink well young and keep for 12-15 years. It is very much in keeping with what most readers would consider the “house style” of Pichon Lalande, despite the fact that they are moving toward more Cabernet Sauvignon and less Petit Verdot in the final blend. Fifty percent of the crop made it into the final blend of 2012 Pichon Lalande, which includes more and more Cabernet Sauvignon under the new ownership of the Roederer Champagne firm. The 2012 is a blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Focused and very pretty with ultra-fine tannins and dark chocolate, dark fruit. Fine texture. A beautiful center palate and finesse here. Creamy tannins. 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. – James Suckling

Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge 2012
A brilliant success again, this blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot is a medium-bodied, impressively concentrated wine with copious quantities of red and black fruits. Licorice, roasted herbs and a touch of background oak are present in this slightly precocious wine, which should be accessible when released. It has the depth to evolve for 20 or more years. Talk about a severe selection – only 41% made it into the grand vin! – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Tasted from a barrel sample at en primeur. The 2012 is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that is being raised in 60% new barrels. It has a intense bouquet, very lifted with the Merlot lending it a very floral aspect. Touches of crème de cassis develop with time. The palate is very well balanced with a smooth texture although you can feel the tannins exert their influence on the structured, much more Left Bank style finish that leaves a tertiary/tobacco aftertaste. This might be a long-term SHL. – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2012
This is fabulous. It’s a white that is so vertical with wonderful depth of fruit and structure. It goes on for minutes. Dense and complex. It’s so structured and amazing. Peaches and mineral with a salty and savory character. It is captivating to taste now. – James Suckling

Under the capable hands of the Cathiard family, this property has been producing fabulous red and white wines. The 2012, another brilliant effort, exhibits notes of orange rind, figs, mangoes, pineapples and caramelized citrus presented in a full-bodied, heady, powerful style. It should drink well for 15-20 years. Drink: 2013 – 2033. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Calon Ségur 2012
The 2012 reveals an opaque ruby/purple color along with sweet tannins, low acidity, medium to full body, and abundant cedary, foresty notes intermixed with black cherries, black currants, caramel and spice box. This medium to full-bodied St.-Estephe should drink well in 4-5 years (atypical for a Calon Segur), and last for two decades. Calon Segur has one of the top dozen terroirs in all of Bordeaux, so I’m waiting to see how spectacular it can become under its new ownership. Certainly the team brought in to push the quality is the right one. I don’t know what the final blend of the relatively soft 2012 was, but I suspect it includes a copious percentage of Merlot, although Cabernet Sauvignon has dominated over recent years. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Superbly rich colour, nose still discreet but of great class, great purity of flavour, tannins present for the long-term, “an iron fist in a velvet glove”, a beautifully structured wine for the long term, the Lafite of Saint-Estephe. 18.25/20pts ( 94/100pts) Drink: 2018 – 2035. – Steven Spurrier, Decanter

Clos Fourtet 2012
The 2012 Clos Fourtet was cropped at 32 hectoliters per hectare and achieved 14% natural alcohol. The final blend was 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. It offers an opaque dense purple color along with attractive blackberry, licorice, truffle and cassis fruit notes. It is full-bodied and dense with an authoritative mid-palate, sweet tannin and a layered mouthfeel that builds incrementally into a stunningly long finish. Precocious and charming already, it will drink better at an earlier age than the massive, prodigious 2009. Drink this killer St.-Emilion over the next 15+ years. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

The Clos Fourtet has a far more restrained bouquet than exhibited in recent vintages, with well defined black cherries, fresh strawberry and a touch of cracked black pepper. The oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh blackberry and fresh raspberry fruit. It is missing a little depth on the mid-palate, but I appreciate the linearity and focus on the finish. Very fine. – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

Wine Cellar offers signed copies of Neal Martin’s ‘Pomerol’

Wine Cellar — Fri, 10 May 2013 09:57:56 +0000

Wine Advocate contributor Neal Martin has published a definitive and entertaining guide to Pomerol – a major Bordeaux commune whose understated and, at times, shabby estates form a counterpoint to the grand châteaux of neighbouring appellations. Having risen to prominence as recently as the 20th century, the region is home to superstars such as Pétrus, Le Pin and Cheval Blanc. Martin’s book leads readers through the commune’s history, contains detailed winery profiles and ultimately captures the unassuming spirit and charm of the place. It also includes a comprehensive vintage guide and an A-Z of Pomerol’s wines, both past and present.

Wine Cellar is delighted to offer signed copies of Pomerol, available at R1,000 each. To purchase your copy, email Roland@winecellar.co.za.

The book has already received the thumbs up from Rebecca Gibb – ‘a pleasure to read and may have you laughing out loud in places’ – and Chris Kissack (the Wine Doctor) – ‘Clear a space on your favourite bookshelf as soon as you can.’ Stock is limited, so please get your order in as quickly as possible to avoid disappointment.

Delicious Gamay and Pinot from Central France

Wine Cellar — Thu, 09 May 2013 14:10:53 +0000

The wines from the famous French appellations are becoming ever more expensive as the emerging markets start acquiring a taste for fine French wine. Less prestigious regions, unhindered by more stringent appellation laws, can, however, produce absolutely delicious wines at a fraction of the price. ‘This, dear readers, is the best sub-£10 wine I have consumed this year,’ says Jamie Goode of the Wine Anorak on the Puy de Dôme Pinot Noir, an IGP Auvergne. This quality category is positioned between Vin de Table and AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée).

Cave Saint Verny is situated in the Auvergne, Central France, on the same latitude as the Rhône Valley. Technically part of the Southern Loire, it has more in common with Beaujolais, with 350-570m altitude and volcanic soils. Both unoaked, the Gamay is quite Rhône-like with good richness, grip and a peppery edge. We almost enjoyed it more than the savoury and perfumed Pinot Noir, which is very Burgundian in style. Both offer superb value and will drink well for a couple of years.

For those interested in serious Beaujolais, we have also landed small quantities from leading producer Jean-Marc Burgaud. See here for the prices.

Jamie Goode’s tasting notes

Cave Saint Verny Puy de Dôme Pinot Noir 2010 IGP Auvergne, France
13.5% alcohol. Fresh and aromatic with sappy green notes, hints of herbs and ripe cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is elegant and textured with smooth, sappy red cherry fruit. Beautifully expressive and elegant. A pure, lighter-style red wine with no harsh edges. So drinkable. 92/100

Cave Saint Verny Gamay 2011 AOC Côtes d’Auvergne, France
14% alcohol. Very juicy and bright with raspberries and cherries. Supple and sweetly fruited with nice texture. Essence of Gamay, uncomplicated and enjoyable. 88/100

Please email Pia@winecellar.co.za or phone 021 448 4105 to order. To receive our latest offers via email, become a Wine Cellar newsletter subscriber.

Decanter applauds SA’s white blends

Wine Cellar — Mon, 06 May 2013 15:05:49 +0000

Decanter has selected 12 leading white blends from SA that ‘rival the best from Bordeaux, the Rhone and beyond’. Alheit Vineyards Cartology 2011 is among their top picks (having been awarded 19/20), along with Mullineux White 2011 (18.5/20), Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2010 (18/20) and Adi Badenhorst’s Funky White NV (17.5/20). Visit Decanter.com for the full list of wines.

As always, we’re proud to offer a host of interesting South African whites that are pushing the boundaries. You can view our full price list on Winecellar.co.za.

Three new critics join The Wine Advocate’s review team

Wine Cellar — Fri, 03 May 2013 15:08:17 +0000

Robert Parker has added three new critics to his editorial team at The Wine Advocate. Following the departure of Antonio Galloni earlier this year, Monica Larner, the former editor of Wine Enthusiast, will cover Italy, whilst Jeb Dunnock of the Rhône Report will take over the Rhône beat. Luis Gutiérrez, Spanish correspondent for Jancisrobinson.com, will review the wines of Spain, Argentina and Chile.

For more on this story, visit www.online.wsj.com.

Monica Larner, the former editor of Wine Enthusiast

Pia’s pick of the week – 1 [video]

Wine Cellar — Thu, 02 May 2013 13:53:59 +0000

Today we introduce a new series of Wine Cellar videos: Pia’s pick of the week. Pia is a fellow lover of the grape and is keenly interested in local wines (as well as cycling, music and the finer things in life). She joined Wine Cellar late last year and has taken over from Tessa on the sales side.

In this week’s episode, Pia gives us the lowdown on Tierhoek Grenache Noir 2011 – a local lovely that really over-delivers for the price. To order, email Pia@winecellar.co.za.