The Old School and the New Wave have been well documented in Rioja. And both schools of thought are classicists in their own way. These two entry-level reds are sure to make everyone happy – whether you’re enjoying a long lunch, a dinner party, sundowners by the sea, or the vastness of the Karoo.
The 2023 Laventura La Nave from Swartland-Rioja rockstars MacRobert & Canals might be their best yet. It’s a blend of equal parts Garnacha, Tempranillo and Mazuelo (Carignan) and spends 6 months in concrete before release. Mineral, fresh and driven, with juicy red berries and dried herbs at its core, this one’s a doozy at R235!
The 2017 Cubillo Crianza from the ultimate traditionalists, López de Heredia, is light on its feet, with their hallmark tobacco, truffle, forest floor, subtle spice and tart red cherry profile. Undoubtedly ‘the super bargain of their portfolio’ (Wine Advocate), it ‘retains the fine-boned elegance of the Cubillo style’ (Vinous). Aged for longer than the legal requirements for a Gran Reserva, the Cubillo represents some of the best value out there at R395 per bottle.
Both producers revere history and those that came before them. They farm completely organically and create wines that showcase their respective terroirs in Rioja Alta and Alavesa.
Serve these reds slightly chilled. For a breezy summer picnic, pack salted or paprika-flavoured crisps, roasted peppers, and tomato and cheese sandwiches (ham or lamb optional). Or opt for a tomato-based pasta salad with anchovies and dried herbs – they’ll sing alongside any tapas, mezze or antipasti.
Tasting Notes:
López de Heredia Viña Cubillo Crianza 2017
‘The super bargain of the portfolio has to be the red 2017 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza, which this year shows more development and faster aging, with more tertiary notes than the other reds from 2013 and 2014 that I tasted next to it. The frost of April 2017 killed 100% of the vegetal mass at Cubillo, and the grapes they picked were exclusively from the second generation, therefore fruit that ripened in a much shorter cycle, as the harvest was also earlier. It has notes of damp earth, mushrooms, truffles and forest floor, dry leaves and decayed flowers and herbs. It has a polished palate and is medium-bodied, with mostly resolved tannins, and it feels a little lighter. But it’s still worth it. It was produced with a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo from vines averaging 53 years of age. It fermented in their old oak vats and matured in used American oak barrels for three+ years. It has 13.5% alcohol, a 3.0 pH and 6.5 grams of acidity. 90,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2023.’ – Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, 93/100
