Mourvèdre is not slight nor tutti frutti. Mourvèdre is powerful, brambly, savoury – a force of nature built for delicious drinking or serious long ageing. One of the world’s most celebrated examples of the variety comes from Domaine Tempier in the tiny but mighty Provençal appellation of Bandol.
Neal Martin recently had dinner at his favourite restaurant in London and was deeply impressed by the 2012 Bandol Cuvée Classique. ‘It was a no-brainer,’ he writes. ‘The palate is beautifully balanced, with real depth and roundness, the acidity keeping it on its toes… a pertinent reminder of great Bandol, and given that the 2012 is already 13 years old, I can see it motoring along nicely for another two decades.’
Tempier’s signature Cuvée Classique 2022 is largely old-vine Mourvèdre (all organically farmed) blended with Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan. The purity of place shines through. The grapes are hand harvested, fermented in concrete for 3-4 weeks and then aged for 18 months in large oak foudres before bottling.
Initially it’s brambly and broody, then becomes incredibly fragrant and opens up to reveal wild berries, olives, meat, rosemary, foresty notes and flinty black rock. The palate has gravelly tannins and a brilliant acidity (like tart red berries) with a salty, slightly grippy finish. We can imagine drinking this on the coast next to a fire for years to come.
As the French would say, this really is a ‘gastronomic’ wine.
Tasting Notes:
Tempier Cuvée Classique ‘Lulu & Lucien’ Bandol Rouge 2022
‘Shows a seductive prettiness, with violet and spice box notes layered with crunchy red plum and graphite shavings, plus flickers of Mourvèdre meatiness. Oak sits nicely in the backdrop, while salty, savory acidity buoys this along and brings freshness to the finish, which is marked by silky, polished tannins. Drink now through 2032.’ – Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator, 91/100
