Old vines have played a major role in pushing South Africa forward in the fine wine market. Vines able to sustain harsh environments over many decades often produce incredibly deep and complex wines. Bruwer Raats is achieving similar success with meticulously-planted, 12-year-old vines in his backyard, however. His small Eden farm, on the Polkadraai hills, is planted with 8,000 vines per hectare on pure, decomposed granite and is farmed organically. The quality comes right down to the design.
The rare Montpellier clone of Chenin Blanc is fermented in a cement egg and a couple of barrels; producing an astonishing wine in 2019. The poise and purity are balanced by rich texture, fine structure and serious length. It easily competes with the best from Alheit and Sadie Family.
The single barrel of Cabernet Franc achieves, perhaps, even more. We believe the Eden Cabernet Franc to be the finest expression of this tricky but rewarding variety in South Africa. More reminiscent of the Loire than Bordeaux, it offers a melange of florals, red fruit and deep spice. Understated and savoury, the immaculately fine and lacy tannins will support two decades of ageing.
Naturally, we have desperate quantities of these rare and hedonistic offerings.
Tasting notes:
Raats, Eden High Density Chenin Blanc 2019
Bruwer Raats doesn’t have to walk very far to check up on the 0.6 hectares of the highdensity Eden block, as it’s located just behind his house. Located on granite soils, it’s one of the best Chenin Blanc sites in Stellenbosch. The resulting wine is taut and stony, with remarkable intensity, scented wood, pear and lemon fruit and impressive tension. Drink 2023-29. – Tim Atkin MW, 94/100
Raats, Eden High Density Cabernet Franc 2018
Volumes are small from this 0.2-hectare block, but the quality is again superb. Somewhere between a Pinot Noir and a Cabernet Franc in style, with 15% whole-bunch fermentation, strawberry and red cherry fruit and a thread of graphite, it’s sappy and refreshing with very fine tannins. Drink 2022-28. – Tim Atkin MW, 95/100
