Our relationship with the wines of Les Carmes Haut-Brion continues to deepen. 2023 has been released en primeur, and the critics can’t get enough of this ‘fantastic.. very, very exciting wine’ (James Suckling). Approaching First Growth quality and below R2 000 a bottle, it offers astonishing value and has to be among the frontrunners for best buy of the vintage.
Les Carmes are pioneers in changing the Bordeaux landscape. Their ultra-modern cellar is contrasted by the age-old vineyard and vinification techniques they employ, such as ploughing the vineyards by horse, using whole bunch, and including amphora components in the wines.
2023 is a wine of seamless integration. It has more tannin than the lauded 2022 (suggesting a long future), yet there’s a sapidity and refinement that should make it very appealing in its youth. As has been the trend since Guillaume Pouthier took the reins, there’s a sense of cohesion here that transcends analysis. Pouthier’s belief in Cabernet Franc is now firmly established, and the variety contributes up to 50% of the blend in 2023. As usual, a portion of the wine sees élevage in clay with a large component of whole bunch during vinification.
2023 is entering the last part of the campaign, and there are superb wines available that should not be missed. Laroque 2023 is the finest Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin have seen from the estate, both scoring it 94-96 points. At R517 it’s a no-brainer. Brane-Cantenac is a Margaux that’s knocking on the door of the top wines at a fraction of the price (R1 149; 96 JA, 94-96 AG), and Langoa-Barton is a serious wine that remains some of the best bang-for-your-buck from Saint-Julien at R760 (93-95 WA, 94 JA). Malartic-Lagravière is a stunner from Pessac-Léognan at a terrific price (R682; 95 JA). Finally, we encourage you to lay to rest any negative perceptions you may have about sweet wines – Sauternes offers the finest value sweet wines in the world in our view. They’re incredibly light-footed and fresh in their youth, showing wonderful complexity and layers over many years of ageing. Coutet (R364; 94-96 NM), Doisy-Daëne (R395; 95-97 NM) and Suduiraut (R599; 98-100 AG) all represent tremendous quality and value, and are available in 375mls.
View our full range of en primeur wines here, and email Johan@winecellar.co.za to place your order.
WHAT IS BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR?
Also known as ‘wine futures’, en primeur is the method of purchasing wines early, offering customers the opportunity to secure a wine allocation while the wines are still in barrel. Purchasing en primeur guarantees the supply and volume of a certain wine and, in most cases, at a better price than the future release price. Vintages like 2019, 2020 and 2023 offer attractive buys as the Euro prices denote a fair discount to previous years.
Tasting Notes:
Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2023
‘This is a fantastic wine and very, very exciting, with purity and brightness to the floral, spicy and blackberry notes. It’s full and deep with agility and weightless. You feel the greatness in this. The winemaker says this is more concentrated and structured than the 2022. Lightly salty. 60% whole-berry fermentation. 50% cabernet franc, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot. From organically grown grapes.’ – James Suckling, 98-99/100
‘Guillaume Pouthier and his team have once again crafted one of Bordeaux’s most unique and characterful wines. Revealing aromas of mulberries and raspberries mingled with notions of vine smoke, orange zest, rose petals and spices, the 2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with a powerful, vibrant and complete mid-palate, concluding with a long, ethereal and mouthwateringly saline finish. Sensual, suave and seamless, its beautifully refined tannins are, analytically, more abundant than even those of the 2022 vintage, yet they are so brilliantly integrated as to be near-imperceptible. This blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is crafted for longevity, though its refined structure will make it surprisingly approachable at an early age. It’s maturing 70% in new oak barrels, 20% in 18-hectoliter foudres and 10% in amphorae. A creditable yield of 50 hectoliters per hectare represents a decided agronomic success in what was a challenging growing season.’ – Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate, 97-99/100
‘Elderflower and peony aromatics, stunning inky plum colour that is very much a signature of Carmes, where it looks so enticing and ripe visually, and then on the palate you feel this constrasting vibrant lift and drinkablity. Back to the signature squid ink flavour that is the key marker of ripe Cabernet in the vintage, and here the grippy slate texture slows everything slows, slowly humming through the palate. Has a sappy, drinkablity, with crushed rose petals and salted cracker salinity. 60% whole cluster, harvest September 11 to 25. 3.6ph. Distinctive, intense, one for Carmes lovers to celebrate.’ – Jane Anson, 96/100
