Recently we tasted an array of Chenin Blancs in Malgas, and once again we were bowled over by the mind-blowing wines from iconic Domaine Huet. ‘No-one here [in Vouvray] has better Chenins,’ says Vinous, and their 2022 Le Haut-Lieu Sec and 2002 Clos du Bourg Moelleux proved that point.
The 2022 Sec from Huet’s first vineyard, Le Haut-Lieu purchased in 1928, has plenty of fruit with a lithe body and bright, mineral finish – showing the essence of this clay-limestone terroir and vintage conditions well. ‘Clarity, precision and harmony are keywords in this wine’s execution,’ writes Vinous.
20 years older, the 2002 Clos du Bourg Moelleux was sensational and challenged what tasters thought they knew about ‘sweet’ wines. This majestic Chenin has aged well, displaying stony, earthy notes, beeswax and concentrated fruit, with the vibrant acidities that Vouvray is famous for. On a lunch table, this would be used for the main course, not the dessert. And it has the energy to last another 20 years!
Producing some of the world’s greatest Chenin Blancs, Huet is revered for their mineral, long-ageing wines of varying sweetness that, according to Neal Martin, will ‘silence a dinner party with awe and wonderment’. The hard work in the vineyards for almost a century shows in the vibrancy, elegance and longevity of their wines. ‘An early adopter of biodynamics, Huet was certified in 1993 when even organic producers were considered hippies.’ – Vinous
View the entire range here.
Tasting Notes:
‘The 2022 Le Haut-Lieu Sec is a lithe, reductive style with floral character and talcum powder. Full of phenolic, lip-smacking texture woven through its core, lending a sense of satisfying grunt to this dry yet balanced style. Clarity, precision and harmony are keywords in this wine’s execution.’ – Rebecca Gibbs MW, Vinous, 92/100
Huet Clos du Bourg Moelleux 2002
‘Full-bodied, with sweet earth, truffle, graham cracker, honey and spice aromas and flavors. Also shows matchstick and apple flavors. Long, sweet finish ripples with acidity. Shows more flash and power now from its sweetness. Minerality should develop with time.’ – James Molesworth, Wine Spectator, 94/100
