If you only want to buy from one more producer this year – buy López de Heredia. Their wines are mystical, ethereal and bloody delicious. And the value for these preciously and perfectly aged wines is second to none.
Visiting them earlier this year solidified their place as one of the greatest producers in the world. Like Neal Martin said, we too have ‘adored, indeed occasionally worshipped, the wines of López de Heredia for many years’.
The new vintages have landed and their calling card, Viña Tondonia Reserva 2012, is brilliant! ‘It has a textbook Tondonia nose and profile’ (WA) with a complex bouquet of red and black berries, tobacco smoke, Spanish spices, cedar forest feel, polished tannins and a long, salty, chalky finish. As ever, it feels youthful even after 12 years of ageing prior to release, and John Gilman’s drinking window goes to 2075, yet delicious for immediate enjoyment. Also available in magnums – perfect for the festive season!
The main difference between López de Heredia and the rest of Rioja is their ultra-traditional approach to winemaking. Tempranillo is blended with Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, producing lighter, hauntingly complex reds. The grapes are also picked at lower alcohols and aged far longer than the appellation dictates.
The Tondonia vineyard was first established between 1913 and 1914 by Don Rafael López de Heredia y Landeta. It’s a 100ha parcel that grows next to the Ebro River, with different varieties planted in separate plots within the larger vineyard.
Please let jolette@winecellar.co.za know if you’re interested in receiving an allocation of the rare Gran Reservas, sold in mixed cases of 24 bottles.
Tasting Notes:
López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 2012
‘The 2012 Viña Tondonia Reserva comes from a very dry year, with 25% less rain than the average (at the time), resulting in lower yields of very healthy grapes that delivered wines with nice balance between alcohol and polyphenols, making it very apt for the aging in barrel. It had a slightly longer élevage in barrel, six years. The wine is aromatic with a developed profile, spicy and tertiary (forest floor, a touch of brick dust and iodine), complex and nuanced. The palate is full and round, with polished tannins and a long, dry finish. It has a textbook Tondonia nose and profile. 250,000 bottles produced.’ – Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, 95/100
‘Viña Tondonia can seem austere in its (comparative) youth, especially when compared with sweeter Bosconia, but this is a wine that will reward patience. Picked earlier to assuage the effect of a warmer site, this blend of Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Graciano and Mazuelo is structured and focused, with redcurrant, forest floor and green herb notes. Give it time.’ – Tim Atkin MW, 95/100 ‘The 2012 Viña Tondonia is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, cultivated on the meander of the Ebro River in Rioja Alta. This garnet wine reveals aromas of ash and plum marmalade, with a faintly herbal core and hints of oaky cedar. Dry and lean, the fairly chalky texture lingers long, concluding with a compact, flavorful and lasting finish. The 2012 is a beautiful old-school Rioja.’ – Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous, 95/100
