Jean-Baptiste Laherte set up the family estate in 1889 and now 7th-generation Aurélien Laherte is at the helm. On my previous trip to Italy, having lunch in Greve in Chianti with Querciabella winemaker, Manfred Ing, I was introduced to the brilliant champagnes from Aurélien Laherte of Laherte Frères. These wines deserve your attention.
‘Aurélien Laherte continues to turn out some of the most compelling wines in all of Champagne. As always, the range here is quite vast, which makes singling out favorites next to impossible.’ – Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
The first wine I’ve tasted of theirs, and one of my favourites is the Ultradition Extra Brut NV. It’s a blend of 60% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot noir (40% of which is reserve wine) and a ‘terrific introduction to the range’ (Vinous). From the southern slopes of Epernay and the Côte des Blancs come their ‘wonderfully precise and nuanced’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV. Classic Laherte!
Les 7 Extra Brut NV is legendary. It hails from the town where they are based, Chavot, and made up of the 7 co-planted varieties (18% Chardonnay, 18% Meunier, 17% Pinot Blanc, 14% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Gris and 8% Arbanne). It is bright, aromatic, with incredible verve and a thousand layers. Their Petit Meslier Extra Brut NV (one of Champagne’s near forgotten and heirloom varieties) is a triumph. It’s the latest of the Champagne grapes to ripen and is thus thriving with the slightly warmer weather of late. ‘Here, Petit Meslier offers a compelling interplay of tropical fruit and energy.’ – Vinous.
Finally, as I love all things Meunier (think Dehours & Lagille) one of the other gems from Laherte is their Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut NV. The blend is 60% Meunier (immediately pressed, so colourless juice), 30% Meunier with maceration and 10% still red Meunier. Think spiced blood orange, dried herbs and flowers and stony minerality.
Aurélien Laherte took over in 2005. He is meticulous, dedicated and has taken the family domaine to the next level – with his devotion to organic and biodynamic practices, respect for the terroir and even new labels on the wines. He is high school friends with Raphael Bérêche, one of the first Grower Champagnes we imported years ago and part of a dynamic and progressive group of vignerons changing the face of Champagne.
I cannot be more excited about this set of Champagnes, it’s the perfect way to celebrate 2025!
For pricing and availability, please email jolette@winecellar.co.za
