Does Chardonnay from Champagne get any better? ‘I am increasingly impressed with the Vergon Champagnes,’ says Antonio Galloni of Vinous, and we’ve felt the same way since we first started importing their wines back in 2018.
If we could buy all the Murmure Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 1er Cru in the world, it still wouldn’t be enough. This bestseller is an incredible introduction to the Vergnon Champagnes for less than R900. Floral, zesty and chalky, it has a lace-like mid-palate, lots of energy and fine bubbles.
We’ve waited years for the 2012 release of their revered MSNL Extra Brut Grand Cru. From one of the greatest recent vintages in Champagne, aged in stainless steel, it shows gorgeous structure, generosity and focus with nutty, orange rind and brioche flavours moving into an seaspray-like fresh finish. It’s ‘wonderfully profound, saline and enticing,’ says Vinous – a ‘superb expression of place’.
Finally, from the more generous 2015 vintage, comes the OG Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grand Cru. It marries the juiciness and richness of the vintage with the purity and linearity that is the house style. Think golden delicious apple pie with a lemony freshness, chalky saltiness, and a remarkably long finish. No dosage added.
The JL Vergnon domaine was established in 1950 and in 1985 they bottled their first wines from the estate. Their Champagnes are visceral and vivacious, with mineral drive and mouthwatering salinity. For all their raciness, these Blanc de Blancs are not aggressive, but rather finely balanced and detailed. There’s no doubt that Vergnon is ‘one of the top estates in the Côte des Blancs today’. – Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net
Tasting Notes:
J.L. Vergnon Murmure Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 1er Cru NV
The current Champagne has not yet been rated; please see the tasting notes on the previous disgorgement date (26 February 2022):
‘Precise and clean lemon peel with a riper core of fresh white peach and lime tree, enhanced by subtle leesy notes. Medium body with firm, zesty acidity and soft, brief bubbles. Good, tasty and savory finish. A bit more length expected. Drink or hold.’ – James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, 93/100
J.L. Vergnon MSNL Extra Brut Grand Cru 2012
‘The 2012 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs MSNL Chétillons et Mussettes Grand Cru, picked in the eponymous parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and vinified in stainless steel, gained an additional 20 months on lees since last year. It appears golden in the glass. Honeycomb, popcorn and salt on the nose promise richness and generosity. The palate delivers this while maintaining its essential chalky briskness and profound saltiness. It veers from evolved, honeyed notes back to ocean floor freshness, making it wonderfully profound, saline and enticing. Drinking this is like drinking an ocean and it is now ideal for the table. Wow. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2024.’ – Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous, 96/100
J.L. Vergnon OG Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grand Cru 2015 ‘The 2015 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs O.G. Grand Cru, harvested in the single parcel Chemin de Flavigny in Le Mesnil sur Oger, gained an additional year on lees since last tasted. It now opens with pure, bright yellow apple flesh and a slight edge of shortcrust pastry. The palate, typical for 2015, is looser with fine but still frothy mousse, showing the sun of 2015 with exquisite ripeness and apple juiciness. Made in that bright brisk house style, it shows the purity of the style and the linearity of chalky lemon fruit, now with an appealing smooth, salty umami finish—perfect for the zero dosage. Disgorged: November 2023.’ – Anne Krebiehl MW, Viinous, 94/100
