‘Spain’s white wine landscape is undergoing a notable transformation, emerging from the shadows of its celebrated reds,’ says Decanter. From seaside Albariños and Rioja field blends to local Spanish varieties like Xarel·lo from the high altitudes of Penedès, we’re here to guide you through it.
Part of the new wave winemakers in Rioja, South African-born Bryan MacRobert is shaking things up with his delicious, modern take on white Rioja – ideal for tapas-style dining. His light and fresh La Nave Blanco 2022 is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Garnacha Blanca. At only R230, it’s just what the Cape Doctor ordered. Reminiscent of top local Chenins, his 2022 Viura spends a year on its lees in oak foudres and is super fine and delineated, with good concentration and vibrancy.
Focused on organics and ancient varieties, Pepe Raventós’ wines are detailed, mineral, floral, fresh, and incredibly moreish. Their 2023 Xarel·lo, raised in concrete and stainless steel, shows notes of fennel, bay leaves, florals and citrus with a precise, dry finish. Can Sumoi is so mooi! ‘Super elegant’, says Jancis Robinson.
Lagar de Cervera, from the famed Rias Baixas appellation, brings the ocean to your doorstep (and your glass). Their 2022 Pazo de Seoane cuvée is a classic Rosal blend of half Albariño and other local white varieties. White flowers, grapefruit and white peach burst out of the glass with a breezy, saline finish. Their varietal 2023 Albariño is a step up. Bright and lively, almost more salty than fruity, it has impressive depth and a sophisticated, steely finish.
Finally, from the man who makes some of the best reds in Spain, comes a modern, elegant white blend of Viura, Malvasía and Palomino Fino, Artuke’s 2022 Trascuevas. It perfectly marries fullness with freshness and makes you think of a white Burgundy. Expect intensity, minerality, brilliant freshness and a long, subtle finish. These wines are perfect for lazy lunches, summer dinners, or as a refresher after a long day. And with most under R350, give them a try – you won’t regret it
Tasting Notes:
‘The pale white 2022 La Nave Blanco, 90% Viura and 10% Garnacha Blanca, was produced in a fresh, light and clean and modern style, with moderate alcohol (12%) and ripeness, very good freshness and acidity and was bottled after six months in concrete with lees. It’s tasty and easy to drink, very pleasant. 3,082 bottles were filled in June 2023.’ – Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, 91/100
‘The varietal white 2022 Laventura Viura, from certified organic wines (but the wine does not carry certification), was closed and quite reductive. It has more stuffing, with 13.5% alcohol but keeps very good freshness (pH 3.2) and feels austere and serious, balanced and subtle. It’s clean and balanced and should develop nicely in bottle. All fermentations are with native yeasts, and this fermented and matured in oak foudre with lees for one year, but the oak is completely integrated into the wine. 3,298 bottles were filled in August 2023.’ – Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, 93/100
‘The 2023 Xarel.lo was produced with grapes from 50-year-old vines at 300 meters in altitude on the property, fermented in stainless steel and matured mostly in stainless steel and 20% in concrete for four months with the lees. It has 12.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.25. It’s varietal, light, fresh and very balsamic, with intense notes of camphor, bay leaf and even mint, medicinal and pungent. It has a clean and bright color denoting youth and a clean and precise palate with mellow acidity and a bitter twist in the finish. It was bottled in February 2024.’ – Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, 91/100
Artuke Trascuevas Blanco 2022 ‘I also tasted the 2022 Trascuevas Blanco, from the same three old vineyards as the 2021 that I tasted next to it. It has 13.1% alcohol with a pH of 3.12, and it feels a little riper and rounder. It has an intense nose of fennel and aniseed, wild herbs and flowers and feels quite primary and undeveloped. It’s clean, precise and fresh. This also matured 50/50 in 600-liter oak foudres and concrete for close to one year. 4,000 bottles were filled in August 2023.’ – Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, 93/100
