‘Mâconnais is a treasure trove of vinous delights that deserve wider appreciation,’ says Neal Martin. Dominique Lafon is one of the best in the Burgundy business, and he established his own winery here in 1999 – Héritiers du Comte Lafon. He was a trailblazer for the region and now focuses all of his attention on the project after having ‘retired’ from Comtes Lafon in 2021.
The 2023 Mâcon-Villages is a multi-vineyard Chardonnay from 30+ year-old vines at 200m altitude. It’s ‘juicy and attractive’ (Jasper Morris MW) with fresh apple and peach – perfect for immediate drinking.
The Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine 2022 comes from extremely steep slopes on shallow clay over limestone. Produced from 35+ year-old vines at 350m altitude, it’s lively and incredibly fine, offering rich citrus fruit but no fatness. The wine is balanced in every respect and lingers on the palate.
From another rocky, high-altitude site overlooking the Saône river, Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches 2022 is mineral and saline with white peach, nectarine and an exotic floral edge thanks to a percentage of Chardonnay Musqué in the vineyard – a mutation that produces floral, Muscat-like aromas. The finish is long and spicy with good freshness and focus.
‘Leading Meursault producer Dominique Lafon was the first leading light of the Côte d’Or to take white Mâcon so seriously that he set up shop there,’ notes Jancis Robinson. These world-class Chardonnays, from biodynamically farmed vineyards, are terroir-driven, mineral, precise and layered – a far cry from the bulk wines that used to be made in the region.
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Tasting Notes:
Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Villages 2023
‘In tank for fining and filtering to bottle in mid-May. Lemon yellow with a green tint. Fresh fruit aromatics, apples in particular. Then fleshier on the palate, lowish but adequate acidity. Juicy and attractive, to drink early. Drink from 2024.’ – Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine 2022
‘The 2022 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine has a lively bouquet with a touch of menthol tincturing the citrus fruit. The palate is well-balanced with good concentration, quite persistent on the finish. Recommended. 2023-2030’ – Neal Martin, Vinous
Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches 2022
‘The 2022 Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches has a more austere bouquet demanding some coaxing from the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a saline entry and fine weight in the mouth. Not complex per se, yet it feels quite long and spicy on the finish. Fine. 2023-2030’ – Neal Martin, Vinous
