‘Is there anyone better when Lafon hits their stride?’ asked Neal Martin recently. And in 2022 they definitely did. ‘Although Comtes Lafon is renowned for its Meursaults, readers should note that their reds can be outstanding,’ noted Neal.
Lafon’s Monthélie 1er Cru Les Duresses 2022 offers proper value for a Pinot Noir of this calibre. It’s bursting with ‘cherries, dark berries and petals’ and has a ‘succulent core of fruit framed by supple tannins’ (William Kelley). The small appellation of Monthélie sits between Volnay and Meursault in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. Les Duresses – with its very steep, east-facing slope – is the pick of the premier crus around here.
This domaine was one of the first to convert to biodynamic farming in the nineties. In 2022, the grapes from Les Duresses were hand-picked, destemmed and fermented in stainless steel before ageing in barrel for 18-22 months.
For something very special, try a bottle of their ‘glorious’ (Decanter) Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu 2022. ‘I have long loved the Volnay Santenots from Lafon,’ says Charles Curtis MW of their other premier cru red. ‘The style has been evolving in recent years; if anything, it is even more compelling.’ For this vintage they used 40-50% whole bunches coupled with fewer (and softer) punch downs, resulting in a silky wine with rich texture, layers of flavour, and a never-ending finish.
Tasting Notes:
Comtes Lafon Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses 2022
‘A fine mid purple. A lovely luscious ripe red fruit, raspberry especially, but so welcoming. Beautiful balance, with just the ripe tannins, though quite low acidity. From racked barrel more precision. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.’ – Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, 91-93/100
