Pinot Noir lovers, rejoice. Whilst Meursault godfather Dominique Lafon is best known for his white wines, his red Burgundies have steadily climbed in stature. Comtes Lafon’s 2023 Volnays combine concentration, finesse and the structure to age beautifully, making them well worth seeking out.
The 2023 Volnay village is made from younger vines up to 21 years old in Les Santenots, a 1er cru. Decanter’s Charles Curtis MW says, ‘this lovely Volnay has a secret – it is produced from grapes in Meursault’. ‘It’s elegance and charm in a glass’ wrote Neal Martin.
Comtes Lafon’s Volnay Champans 2023 is a 1er cru we’re delighted to offer for the first time. Neal Martin is smitten, saying ‘in particular, Les Champans 2023 delivers everything you could wish for’. With its power, energy, minerality and depth, ‘it continues a recent run of strong performances for the Lafon Champans’ (Wine Advocate).
‘Lafon’s Santenots is a reference for the appellation in each vintage; 2023 is no exception’ (Charles Curtis MW). The Santenots du Milieu 2023, their premier Volnay and a 1er cru, is built for the long haul. Both Curtis and Neal Martin estimate this exceptional red’s drinking window to stretch towards 2050 and even 2060!
The 2023 growing season saw warm average temperatures but few heat spikes, while cool nights helped preserve flavour and acidity. Although harvest was expected to begin in the first week of September, Lafon and a few other producers started picking in the final week of August. Lafon’s 2023s are sophisticated, with depth and sublime precision.
If you’re interested in Lafon’s Meursault village and 1er Crus, reach out to Jolette@briceandburnett.co.za.
Tasting Notes:
‘This lovely Volnay has a secret – it is produced from grapes in Meursault. Lafon is the largest landowner in Volnay Santenots, and this wine is from the young vines of that vineyard. The wine offers a fresh raspberry and plum fruit character with hints of lavender and spice. The texture is supple and approachable; there is less intensity than in the Santenots, but one finds a youthful vigour and charm instead. The grapes here are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask, one-third new.’ – Charles Curtis MW, Decanter, 93/100
Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2023
‘The 2023 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru sports a small reduction like the Clos des Chênes, but there is a little more intensity in the fruit. Finely delineated, it is also a touch more floral in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky texture and perfectly judged acidity, a graceful Volnay with a peacock’s tail on the finish. Beautiful.’ – Neal Martin, Vinous, 93-95/100
‘Exotically spicy and boldly concentrated, this is a demonstrative Champans. Flourishes of summer bouquet, cranberry preserves, cherry coulis and white pepper skip across the midweight palate. Chalky minerality gives this some tannic tug on the extended finish that is lifted by tonic acidity. Exuberance in a glass!’ – Christy Canterbury MW, timatkin.com, 94/100
Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu 2023
‘Lafon’s Santenots is a reference for the appellation in each vintage; 2023 is no exception. It offers a ripe, forward blackberry and blueberry fruit character with earth, smoke and spice notes. The texture is substantial, with firm tannins and abundant extract, but there is nothing heavy or astringent here. Although Pierre Lafon has begun to experiment with whole clusters in the ferment, there was none in any wine this vintage. This wine was racked after harvest 2024 and will be bottled in the spring.’ – Charles Curtis MW, Decanter, 96/100
‘The 2023 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu has another very delineated, quite floral bouquet that is cut from a similar cloth to the Champans, with just a touch of violet emerging with time in the glass. More powerful than the other Volnays, the palate is well balanced, with great depth and white pepper/graphite notes toward the very persistent finish. This is a Volnay Santenots with well-placed ambition, much more elegant than vintages 10 or 20 years ago.’ – Neal Martin, Vinous, 93-95/100
